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The love-hate relationship between black women and hair
Monday, April 23, 2007
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Syann
Syann Thompson
Black women are constantly engaged in a battle with their hair

In my opinion, black women are quietly fighting an internal and external battle over the natural texture of their hair.


“My great granny always said, ‘If you want to know a black woman, you touch her hair. She said that is where we carry everything - all our hopes, our dreams, our pains.” - Novelette, Da Kink in My Hair

I have always been curious to find out the real reason why we Black women straighten our hair, whether it is through perming or the hot comb. This led me to research and complete an entire dissertation called, Why Black Women Hate Their Hair: A look at British, Caribbean and African-American Women.

The results I found were very telling. But this journey of research was not only about hair, but an opportunity to unravel what I believe are deep-seated insecurities we black women have had with our hair for thousands of years. I’m not just concerned about hair, I am more concerned about how we view and value who we are as black women.

For African Americans in particular, the natural texture of their hair emerged as a politic statement during the Civil Rights Movement in the 1960’s. The display of natural hair amongst black people during this period echoed, “I’m black and I’m proud.” It was not only symbolic in the movement against racial discrimination but also revealed a deeper, intimate need for black people to define themselves.

In my opinion, black women are quietly fighting an internal and external battle over the natural texture of their hair. The internal misery comes from negative influences within their race, that subtly and directly degrade wearing their hair naturally. The external battle is the influence of the media who constantly define beauty as something that appears to exclude the innate beauty of a diversified group of black women.

While I was born in The Bahamas, hair experiences for black women from the Caribbean are not that different from black women in other parts of the globe. If there is one thing that unites us, it’s our hair. If you are a black woman and have had your hair called, ‘kinky, nappy, hard, rough’, you know exactly what I’m talking about when I speak about the shame and embarrassment that was associated with this type of hair.

Depending on the time you grew up in; as a little black girl you’d have memories of sitting still while your mother used tons of grease and a hot comb to straighten your hair. I can still almost hear my mother say: “Don’t get caught in the rain!” We all knew once water hit our hair all those kinks would emerge. If not the hot comb process, you had the ‘Jerry curls’. And for others who didn’t have to get their hair straightened at all, you’re the exception when your Momma was happy that you weren’t nappy.

Let’s start from the beginning. The history of black hair all started on the plains of Africa. The territories where descendants of the African Diaspora were transported from into slavery are western and West Central Africa, that included countries like Nigeria, Sierra Leone, Senegal and Gambia. According to the writers Ayana Byrd and Lori Tharps in Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America”, our ancestors through their customs and rituals regarded their hair as sacred.

Hairstyles were not just for adornment but symbolized religion, wealth, age, marital status and ethnic identity. It was at the brink of slavery when Africans were raped of their human dignity by European explorers. According to Byrd and Tharps: “One of the first things they did to their new cargo, was shave their heads.”

At the turn of the last century black women were urged to straighten their hair

Even God, who discriminated against our women on this hair proposition, knows that straight hair beautifies a woman. Yes, straighten your hair and do it at once...

A 1910 editorial in the Washington Bee newspaper

The hair of an African was a prized possession and having it shaved off was considered an unspeakable crime and can be interpreted as, taking away someone’s identity. During slavery black women wore head scarves to cover their hair. The slave women used all sorts of creative and rural methods to soften their hair before straightening it. Field slaves wore their hair differently from house slaves. Field slave women wore head rags while the men shaved their hair and wore straw hats. Hair of house slaves was more groomed; they wore cornrows, braids and plaits.

In this new territory, hair styling was still considered important to African slaves and was an integral part of community life. According to academic Shane White, it was during this time that slaves began to look for ways to groom their hair to look like that of a white person; this came in the form of hair straightening. Back then they used bacon grease, lard and all sorts of concoctions to straighten their hair; today we use a hair straightener called perm or hair relaxer.

A black woman who perms her hair would argue that she is not doing it to look white, look ‘acceptable’ or fit in. But really, slapping that white creamy chemical mixture on your hair every six to eight weeks and saying that you do it to make your natural roots ‘manageable’ just doesn’t cut it for me. Black women did what they had to do to make themselves acceptable and fit into society.

Around the world in some black cultures today, when we hear ‘good hair’ or ‘bad hair’ we know what it means. Good hair meant that your hair was wavy, loosely curled and was near to that of a white person. Bad hair meant that your hair was nappy, tightly coiled and probably bloomed into an Afro.

Research shows that black British women spend more money to ‘beautify’ their hair than their Caucasian counterparts. A Guardian article entitled Big brands Lock onto the Brown Pound”, writer Laura Smith revealed that on average black British women spend six times more on hair care and beauty products than white women and more than fifty percent of black British women frequent salons.

In this article researchers found that £83.97 is the yearly amount the average white British woman spends on beauty products. On the other hand, black British women spend one £117.44. According to the researchers this does not include salon visits or mainstream black hair care products. History shows that advertising played a big role in forming black women’s ideas on how they hair ought to look. As early as 1910, An American newspaper ran an editorial, urging African American women to straighten their hair.

The newspaper called the Washington Bee, told the readers even God did not like Black women because of the kinky hair He gave them:

“We say straighten your hair, ladies, beautify yourselves, make those aggravating, reclusive, elusive, shrinking kinks long flowing tresses that may be coiled or curled or puffed to suit Dame Fashion’s latest millenary creations, even if it takes every ounce of hair straightening preparation that can be manufactured. …Even God, who discriminated against our women on this hair proposition, knows that straight hair beautifies a woman. Yes, straighten your hair and do it at once.”

There are millions of magazines published every week, television commercials and billboards around the globe that influence women from all races and walks of life - and whether we realize it or not, these forms of media are directly creating beauty standards for women to live by.

Appreciating natural hair is taking pride in one's African heritage

The journey of a black woman beginning to appreciate her natural hair... should be considered as a journey toward self love, self awareness and a pride in the rarity of her African heritage.


I was browsing newsagents and general book stores on a high street one day, going through all the magazine sections looking for a magazine cover with a black woman with natural hair- I found one. Thereafter I was looking to see if there were any other non-American black women in general sporting the covers. I left angry and saddened at the lack of representation of black British women on magazine covers. I figure that in a country with such a diversity of black women from the beautiful ebonies and caramel skin-coloured women, that somehow more of them should be seen in the media, whether in magazines, on television and in commercials.

Black women can barely see themselves represented in the media, much less black women with natural hair. This brings me to interviews conducted with black British women. In a poll of twenty three black British women, a staggering 91 per cent of those questioned, said that growing up they hardly saw black women with natural hair on television or in the mainstream media.

Some in fact said that during these childhood and teenager years they barely saw black people at all, much less black women with their natural hair texture. A 40 year old said: “A depiction of Black people with natural hair on television wasn’t common place. Like the Cosby’s, their hair was straightened or had curly perms, we were just pleased to actually see Black on TV.”

A 37 year old said: “Actually from television they always portray Black women on TV with straight hair and Black women would want to look like that in real life, but you realize that Black women don’t really look like that all the time, we have to keep on perming our hair to keep that look.”

Another factor for a black woman not exploring the beauty of her natural hair could definitely be a black man’s perception. After all which black man doesn’t want to feel that silky touch glide over his fingers as he strokes his woman’s straight hair. The bottom line is that some black men are just uneducated when it comes to the diversity of hair textures among black women.

Some black men just need to rub the top of their heads, have a feel of their armpits and realize that may just be the same hair texture on the head of their female counterpart. In the black British women poll conducted, 83 per cent of the participants agree that most black women allow a black man’s perception of beauty to affect the way they wear their hair.

A 33 year old accountant said: “I know of women who had their hair natural and have gone back to straightening their hair because their boyfriends didn’t like it natural.”

A 36 year old gives this view of a situation: “When you’re with a black man and he sees a white blonde woman passing, the way he looks at them (white women), could make you think you’re not as good as them.” According to their opinions, the women in this poll believe that men’s influence plays an important part in a woman forming her beliefs on how she should wear her hair.

For hundreds of years black women have drastically altered their natural hair texture to make it straight. Do black women who deliberately make their hair straight resemble who they truly look like? Have some black women neglected their birthright through their hair? I don’t have the answers.

But I can tell you this much, the journey of a black woman beginning to appreciate her natural hair is not just about aesthetics but it should be considered as a journey toward self love, self awareness and a pride in the rarity of her African heritage.


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It is both sad and ironic that a people as proud of their African roots as Jamaicans should have imbibed the religious bigotry of their white plantation masters.
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